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Information Connection: Buying a computer

How much computer do I need?

by Dave Anderson
Your PC Dude
http://www.YourPCdude.com

One thing I have learned in the 10 years I have been working with computers is that technology does not stand still. While I still proudly drive my 10 year old Honda Prelude, the same can not be said about the PC I bought in 1989.

Thinking back a few years, I can remember helping my dad buy his first PC. We shopped for the best deal possible and paid over $2000.00 for an IBM compatible AT with 640K RAM running DOS 3.30. My dad still has that PC in a closet, and now we laugh to see the truly floppy 5 ¼" disk drive that used to be ‘state of the art’.

Whether you have similar artifacts in your closet, or just bought your first system last month, a few things remain constant. It is still possible to buy a system for $2000.00; and - if you do - it will be just as obsolete as my dad’s old machine in a few short years.

So, the critical issue becomes - how can I get the most from my investment, and make it last as long as possible?

 

The best answer is to consider how you plan to use your computer. With all the hype involved in the computer retail business these days, it is possible to spend lots of money, and still have no idea what to do when you get home. Others will toil in endless frustration trying to make their older system run today’s new software. So what is the answer?

If you currently own a system, you probably have an idea of the software you enjoy using, or would like to purchase. Next time you are browsing at the software store, take a look at the system recommendations for these titles. Note the specifications for the following items:

    • Operating System – Windows is most common, but note the version 3.1, 95, 98, NT.

    • Processor – this is the heart of your PC.

    • RAM – is the memory. More memory equals more speed and better performance.

    • Hard Drive – where your programs are stored. 4 to 10 Gigabytes are standard.

    • Video Card – if you like action games or multimedia, you need a good video card.

    • Modem (for Internet and interactive programs) – 56k is standard

    • CD or DVD ROM Drive Speed – be aware of the difference between CD and DVD.

Most software comes with two listings; ‘minimum’ system requirements and ‘recommended’ system requirements. Minimum requirements are often just that – the absolute minimum hardware needed for the program to operate. If your computer is at or below the level listed, you may be frustrated trying to make the software run on your machine. On the other hand, for many popular business programs, system requirements are often less than the highest end systems on the market.

Even if you are planning your first computer purchase, a little homework can save you money and frustration. Read up on the current software offerings and get a feel for how you want to use your PC. Ask your friends or office IT staff about the best programs to buy, and the system requirements they recommend to run them. With this knowledge, you can better understand all the terms that will be thrown at you when you start to make a purchase.

Finally, keep in mind that once you start buying computers, you will have many happy times, some frustrating times, and – before long – a closet full of old computers! Good luck, and happy computing.

Dave Anderson
Your PC Dude
http://www.YourPCdude.com

 

Editor's note: Notice Dave's approach, here. Let the tasks you want to do determine what software you'll buy, and let the software determine what hardware you'll buy. Don't just go out and buy a computer--buy a computer that works very well with the software that allows you to do what you need to (or want to!) do. Not the other way around. I've spoken at length with Dave, and he is truly a PC dude. I encourage you to visit his site. -- MLL.

 

Computer Resource Quicklinks

Working the Windows Desktop

The whole desktop approach ignores the fact that a computer's hard drive(s) are the electronic version of a paper filing cabinet. It also ignores the fact that people store a huge amount of files in that system. And it ignores a few dozen other facts relevant to using a computer. It's just a bad approach.

The desktop assumes you don't care what files you actually work on. It opens apps, not files, and this is the pathway to problems. You can inadvertently be revising the wrong thing, if you can even find it in the first place.

What you should do instead is use Windows Explorer. Microsoft tends to hide this, but it should be your standard interface with your computer, unless you don't mind working blind.

You can always right mouse click the Start button to invoke it, but you should add Windows Explorer to your Quick Launch bar and several other menus in Windows.

The default settings for Windows Explorer defy logic. Change these so you can actually see what files you are looking at. Enable it to show you the file extensions (unclick the insane "Hide extensions" box that is, stupidly enough, checked by default though actually there is never any reason to ever check this box). Select the option to show details. Now, you will be able to see your file size, file date, and other useful information. If you right click around a bit, you can find quite a bit of functionality in Windows Explorer.

If you haven't been using this interface previously, make a point of using it now. If you always open files from within Windows Explorer, you will always be able to see all available files and select the right one.

Use Windows Explorer to set up your filing system as if it's a paper filing cabinet. Save all files either on the data drive (dual hard drive machine) or in a folder on a single hard drive machine. Do NOT save files to the default locations. These never make any sense. They are typically within your applications, which is a dumb place to save them. That's how you end up with corrupted data files and it also makes file backups difficult.

For single-drive users, an easy solution is to create a folder called 0files as your top-level data folder. The zero means it will show up at the top of your file list, making things easy for you. Below this folder, create you filing structure. Never store anything at the root of this folder. Think of it as the shell of a five-drawer filing cabinet and don't toss stuff in the bottom. Always put files in folders that are in drawers.

With a good filing structure in place, you will always be able to find your files by simply clicking right to them. So think this out as you go and follow a good taxonomy. It's a much more effective way to work than how the zombies at Microsoft envision people working.

 

Recovering hard drive space

Even with today's huge drives, people sometimes run out of hard drive space. The steps below can recover wasted space.

  • Do a search for *.tmp files. Delete all of them. Then defrag your drive.
  • Do a search for *.bak files. Delete all of them. Then defrag your drive.
  • If you have any *.bmp files, change the format to *.jpg. This will result in radically smaller files. You need an image tool for this; if you don't have one installed already, then skip this step.
  • Set the Properties for the drive to compress files. In Windows Explorer, right mouse click the drive name. Then select Properties. Then select Compress to Save Drive Space. This could take a while, so unless you want your machine tied up for a few hours do this process one folder at a time and then do it for the whole drive.
  • If this issue is for your programs drive, then remove any programs you aren't using. Go to Control Panel | Remove Programs.
  • On your data drive, zip files you aren't using.

There are other steps you can take, but if, at this point, you are still low on disk space you really need to add another hard drive or upgrade one that's in your system. Or, another very cool option, is to add a My Ditto system. See our Review of the Dane my Ditto network server.

   

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